Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 1995. Another ancient bottle fished from under the cobwebs in the ancestral cellars. Another that tastes wonderful, as if it has lots of life yet to come. Another that is, sadly, the last one I have. This really does feel as if it still might be on the up – not bad at 28. I could almost mistake this for an excellent right-bank claret, but that might be because I’m an old dullard with the sophisticated palate of a ravenous horse.

I bought this at the vineyard, probably sometime just before the turn of the century. I used to enjoy visiting in those days. I remember a couple of tastings conducted by the sales manager with a glass in one hand and a cheroot in the other. That’s the way to do it! I also met M. Joguet himself on one occasion. I think he had partaken of even more of his wine than I had, and was just as wobbly. He was extremely gracious and cordial, though. Sadly the domaine went through rather iffy times after that, although things are on the up again now.