Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2016. I was drinking this stuff when it was called Cru de Coudoulet some 40 years ago. Of course, renaming it led to it being known more widely as ‘baby Beaucastel’, which was probably the intention. These marketing men, eh? But judging it as a Côtes du Rhône (which we should) it’s a very good one. I had tried a couple of 2016s over the previous few years and been vaguely disappointed – somehow it didn’t seem as good as I felt it should (good wine, great year etc.) But this bottle really seemed to be in a good place with all the component parts finally working together. Probably what the wine people would call ‘well integrated.’ And that’s a good thing as I still have over a dozen left.